Walking into St. Marys like…
I couldn’t do a road-trip of the East Coast without stopping at my namesake. Located on the border of Florida, this historical Georgia city is separated by a river, also named St. Mary’s, which acts as a border around a section of Georgia shared with Alabama and the top of Florida. The river itself is a fascinating deep shade of blood-red, dyed by the roots of the plants that grow by its bed, and it spans 126 miles before dispersing into the ocean.
The city itself appeared nearly desolate as I drove in. I was welcomed by a sign standing beside a spouting fountain with abandoned railroad tracks traversing the road ahead. A freshly painted red rail coach advertised St. Marys Railroad and I couldn’t miss the photo ops.
I continued on towards the waterfront where my hostel awaited, the Blue Goose Hostel. This was the first hostel I’d been able to find since New York (I found it on AirBnB), and I certainly had high hopes that I would meet other travellers here. But with the hostel closed, and the adjoining cafe also showing no sign of life, I realised this was not to be. Thankfully a lady was already inside cleaning and she was able to let me in to the 6 bed hostel, but once she left, the cafe and hostel was entirely in my wardenship.
Exploring St. Marys
So what did this little ghost town have to offer any potential passers by? Aside from it’s warm southern charm that is generously distributed by any locals you happen to bump into if you wander far enough, there are a number of places to explore.
Cumberland Island National Seashore Museum
The museum, as well as having a very friendly lady manning the desk, is a source of much information about St. Marys and Cumberland Island. A video gives you an overview of it’s history and a mini exhibit gives you information on the little city (or ghost town as I prefer to call it) and it’s nearby island. The most amazing thing I learned about was how at one point, over 400 slaves were kept on this island with only a handful of ‘masters’ overseeing them.
St. Marys Submarine Museum
This museum is dedicated to preserving the history those who served or are serving in the Submarine Service. With many artifacts, photographs, and mementos from as far back as WWI, it gives you an insight into submarine life.
Don’t be surprised if you spot a few handsome men in uniform either… #justsayin
The Bank
I just thought you should all see this… No further words required.
The Waterfront
Lined with boats of all shapes and sizes, the waterfront is a great place to relax. I found it peaceful as I watched a local man, Jimmy, crabbing whilst eating my biscuit and sausage sandwich with grape jelly (sounds weird and it kind of tasted weird too, but if you know, you know!). It was equally tranquil to take a quiet walk along the waterfront and find a bench to rest on whilst I imagined up a story in my mind. This is where to go if you want to book a ferry over to Cumberland Island, read on to see why it’s definitely worth a visit!
Seagle’s Saloon
Their slogan is “Where good friends meet”, and they aren’t wrong. After settling into the hostel, and checking out the waterfront it got dark and started to thunderstorm. I rushed over to this Saloon to get in out of the rain and I hoped I could also grab a bite to eat. I was not disappointed! I got some of the tastiest blackened prawns I’ve ever had in my life! And, I quickly met some new friends.
The lady behind the bar was teasing one man in her deep gritty southern accent, “get outta here!”, his wife was laughing too. Before long, we all were chatting. They were travelling to Florida on their boat and had stopped in St. Marys with their captain because of the storm.
If you read my previous post about “Saying Yes” to new opportunities, you may already know that this couple invited me to complete my journey over to Florida on their boat. But sadly, I had to decline!
Cumberland Island
So, you’ve heard me mention it a couple of times but what is this place? Cumberland Island lies off the coast of St. Marys and is the largest of the golden isles. This barrier island is protected with rich wildlife flourishing in its beaches and forest. Remains of a mansion built in 1736 and known as the “Dungeness” lie almost entirely demolished, and wild, feral horses wander between the walls.
The horses, of course, was the main reason to visit. A long time ago, these horses would have been tame. But having been long abandoned, over a few hundred years they have had to survive on their own and breed in these unnatural conditions. Now they are adapted to their environment, they are not to be mistaken for the sweet but tame horses we are used to. No, they need to be kept at a distance or approached with great care.
In addition to this, the forest offered fantastic walks and I spotted a number of animals that I’ve never seen before, including armadillos which I was quickly told by some unimpressed kids that they aren’t rare at all in these parts.
The beach, on one side of the island, stretched as far as the eye could see with pure white sand which would also be home to the loggerhead sea turtles that are known to the island.
What you need to know about the island is that there are set ferries that go to and from Cumberland island each day, and if you miss the last ferry, you better be prepared to camp out. Some people came to the island for the purpose of camping, but I had no such intentions which is why I was running at top speed from one end of the island to the other in an attempt to not miss the last boat! And I only just got it!
Okefenokee
So on my way out of St. Mary’s after a short but adventurous 2 days, I decided to head to the Okefenokee Swamp which I’d read about in a brochure. The swamp was 438,000-acres, with the same deep red water that flowed in the St. Marys river. Although shallow, the swamp was full of wildlife, alligators being well-hidden but plentiful. This peat-filled wetland used to be the home of the Oconi who were said to be like giants, very strong and healthy. In theory, this is because of the conditions within the swamp, which makes it the perfect place for humans and wildlife to flourish. The swamp is protected by the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and the Okefenokee Wilderness and so it should be, it really is a wonder to behold.
One of the interesting things about this swamp is that because it’s on a slight tilt, it actually is freshwater, rather than stagnant, and that, combined with the peat and the algae, makes the water some of the cleanest water in the US to drink – despite it’s tinted beer-coloured appearance.
Yes, I took a sip. Tasted just like bottled water! And what?!
That concludes my adventures in Georgia, my next destination is Florida!
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