It was getting closer to my birthday, and I had set myself a goal that would have been more than achievable only a year and a half before; I wanted to visit 30 countries by the time I hit 30.
Well, with all borders shut and no prospects of my dream Maldives-Sri Lanka-India birthday escape happening, it dawned on me that I'd never visited Northern Ireland.
I have to make a small confession here, because I've visited Ireland (Dublin, Blackrock) before and done the usual perusing of Grafton street- may or may not have done a street performance of my own, grabbing a traditional Irish stew in a local pub and taking the Guinness Storehouse® tour (I was like 15 at the time, not sure if that should have been allowed??). And before you judge me, I did know that Ireland was a separate country from Northern Ireland at the time, BUT what I didn't know- until very recently in fact -was that Northern Ireland is a separate country from England.
This information first came to light around a couple of years ago to the amusement of my work colleagues. I remember the moment well, we were at a volunteering day repainting a youth centre, my senior manager was there and everyone had a look of mixed concern and disbelief as they asked if I was joking. I must admit, this isn't the first time I've been subjected to such looks, and likely won't be the last. I somehow have lived this long having missed out some key pieces of crucial information that I'm only just discovering - but I won't go into all of that now.
As you can imagine, this was a very welcome piece of information as I upped my country count to include Scotland at the time, and this year I also added Wales to the list when they opened up their borders to the English. That still only took me to 26 countries, and with my birthday in August, it didn't give me much time to make up an additional four.
I was delighted when the rules changed allowing free travel between England and Northern Ireland and took the opportunity for a small weekend break.
What's the craic in Northern Ireland?
Here are some of the fun facts I learned about Northern Ireland during my visit.
The US clearly love the Irish, 17 of their presidents are emigrants from Northern Ireland.
Game of Thrones was filmed in 25 locations in Northern Ireland (among other worldwide destinations of course).
The Titanic was designed and built by a Belfast industrial company called Harland and Wolff, and a large number of passengers were Irish.
The Giant's causeway is known to the Irish as the 8th Wonder of the World, and as legends have it, was created by created by an Irish giant by the name of Finn MacCool.
The Giants Causeway Tour
The first thing I did was book myself onto a tour to the Giants Causeway, because well, I'm not going all the way to Northern Ireland and not seeing this! The trip I booked was with Ulster Tours online for around £20/£25, a girl I met on the tour only paid around £18 booking it online that same morning.
Do I recommend the tour? Absolutely! Because it didn't just take us straight to the Causeway and back, we stopped at other beautiful places on route and were taken past places of interest such as celebrity homes, Game of Thrones filming spots, and my favourite of all was the stunning coastal views. The driver had a wealth of knowledge to share and was more than happy to answer our questions.
Here are a few of the memorable stops:
Carrickfergus castle
Built right on the edge of the sea, the castle stands (and has stood for 800 years) as a protective stronghold over the town of Carrickfergus in Antrim. If I'd had the chance to take a tour inside, I might have learned that it was first built in the late-twelfth century by a young Anglo-Norman knight called John de Courcy, who led a military expedition into Ulster.
I had to admire it's beauty from the outside due to covid, but if you look closely into the harbour, you'll see plenty of jellyfish. Maybe don't go swimming there...
The castle now appears to be open to the public and I hear they do events!
Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge
This is a very famous bridge indeed, and I'm gutted I missed the chance to brave it! Holding you up 30 meters above sea level, you only need to walk for 20 meters to cross the [not] very secure-looking bridge made out of rope. Don't worry, I hear it bounces with each and every step you take as you cross the chasm. Apparently, there have been no deaths since it was first opened in 2004, so in theory you're perfectly safe!
The bridge, to my disappointment (maybe not to yours) has been closed throughout lockdown and remains closed now as of September 2021, but the car park is open for you to park at and go for a lovely coastal walk. The views are incredible and a great pre-requisite to the ultimate mind-blower that is the Giant's Causeway, I honestly could have been told I was abroad and I would have believed you.
I hope the bridge opens up for tourists again soon, but don't miss this viewing point from above the bridge where this horse awaits you. You will regret it!
Whitepark Bay
This stunning stretch of white sandy beach on the North Antrim coastline is something straight out of paradise, and its secluded location means it's ancient sand dunes can provide a safe habitat for a variety of creatures.
It's a perfect spot to spend an afternoon sunbathing, reading, generally relaxing away from the busyness of life but you can't swim here because of the dangerous rip currents present in these waters.
Giant's Causeway
The site I really came to see, the 8th Wonder of the (Irish) World, and honestly one of the most spectacular natural formations I've ever seen - I present to you, the Giant's Causeway!
Science tells us that it was formed between 50 - 60 million years ago, due to volcanic activity which caused molten basalt to erupt through chalk beds forming some sort of lava lake that somehow ended up as this.
More likely (or at least more interestingly), legend tells us that a 50ft tall giant by the name of Finn McCool (I personally believe this is where the word "cool" derives from) is said to have had a bit of a falling out with a Scottish giant, by the name of Benandonner, who was mocking him from across the sea. Finn was so pissed off that he grabbed some huge rocks and chucked them into the water, forming a trail of stepping stones across the sea (well the full story has more of a back & forth but you get the picture). And I can back this story up by telling you that on the other side of the sea, in Scotland over at Fingal's Cave on the isle of Staffa, you can see the exact same rock formation!
Whatever side of the legend you are on, make sure you add this to your bucket list. It's well worth the visit, and you will be blown away.
The Dark Hedges
The final stop on my tour was this famous road, from the scene in Game of Thrones Season 2, Episode 1 "On the King's Road".
This row of eerily-malformed Beech trees that line up either side of Bregagh Road has become a very popular tourist spot, and even when I went it was pretty busy with Game of Thrones fans and I guess those who just want to see a pretty unusual and stunning avenue with trees that were planted in the 18th century.
It's well worth a stop on your way back from the Giant's Causeway for that perfect photo op!
The Botanic Gardens
So, wondering what else to see in Northern Ireland? Well, luckily on day one when I was aimlessly wandering around Belfast, a nice Irishman asked me "Where you to?". I don't know whether he could just tell I'd come from Bristol, or if they say that in Northern Ireland, but I paused and told him where I was headed. "No," he said, "There's nothing that way..." He proceeded to give me a list of places to visit and told me about the University district - where apparently I'd fit right in... I'll take the compliment.
Queen's University is a stone's throw away and the students appeared to use these gardens as their picnic spot for lunches or just hanging out. The 28 acre land houses- among other things -a rose garden, alpine garden, sculptures and a stunning white cast iron greenhouse growing ample tropical, exotic vegetation known as 'The Palm House'.
Yes, it's completely free. Yes, there are even toilets. No, I couldn't find a café on the grounds.
If you are looking for a quick bite, or maybe a vegan milkshake (you heard me right), then you can head past the University, walk past the First Minister of Northern Ireland (Arlene Foster) like I did, and then grab a window seat at Maggie Mays Belfast Café.
The Belfast Quarters
So Belfast is divided into seven quarters, yes that's right - in Belfast they play by their own rules. The place you'll really find yourself hanging out most is in the Cathedral Quarter. Here you will find it buzzing with life, especially at night. You will find plenty of pubs, bars, cafes, restaurants, shops, street art and monuments in this area as well as St. Anne's Cathedral which this all centres around.
In many ways Belfast reminded me of Bristol city, where from one narrow, cobbled lane to the next, you don't know what to expect. There were lots of little hidden gems down dodgy-looking avenues, as well as more prestigious fine-dining or drinking venues in popular areas.
The Pocket Flat Iron
Situated within the Queen's Quarter in a well-recognised building called the 'Flat Iron', this cute and quirky little spot is perfect for brunch alone or with friends. The boho décor featured exposed bricks, bare wood and homely plants which made me feel right at home ordering my chai latte which came in a loose-leaf tea pot with steamed oat milk.
The breakfast was a very generous portion, actually one I struggled to make it through but also couldn't stop eating it was so delicious.
If I was there longer, I think they would have seen a lot more of me!
The Dirty Onion and Yardbird
Hidden away in the Cathedral Quarter, what was interesting about this venue was that they only serve roast chicken. Talk about narrowing your menu choices! It's a really quirky joint with a industrial vibe, and you can also just go for drinks downstairs if you don't fancy roast chicken.
Sweet Afton
This cosy bar, with its industrial-meets-book-club feel was easy to settle into for the night with my newfound friends who I met on the Giant's Causeway tour. This in in the historic Linen Quarter but it's only a 10 minute walk from the Cathedral Quarter. If, like me, you enjoy a cocktail then you will be delighted at the selection. However, you will find yourself paying London prices with it being £9 a cocktail!
I had more French martinis than my bank bargained for but it was all for a good cause.
Commercial Court
While you're exploring the Cathedral Quarter, you may find yourself on this cute little cobbled street which is where you'd find the most famous pub in Northern Ireland; the Duke of York. I didn't get to have a drink at the Duke of York, but I couldn't resist a quick little snap of this gorgeous alleyway.
I didn't get much of a chance to see all the other quarters, although I did spend a morning in the Titanic quarter - you can't visit Belfast without checking out the Titanic! I'm sure there's so much more to see which I'll have to save for another trip. But for now, I hope you enjoyed my whistle-stop tour of Northern Ireland.
Ciao for now,
Mary-Daisy x